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Paris Fashion Week:Fatima Lopez,Rabih Kayrouz,Anthony Vaccarello,Nana Aganovich

Posted in French Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 30, 2010

It is so difficult to stop myself  writing  at great length about individual designers, but you would be here all day and the world would come to a stand still !! There is so much to see, so here is a quick fix of what Paris has to offer.

Fatima Lopez

Lisbon, Portugal is the home of Fatima Lopez who’s work in general  she describes as “irreverent”, though this isn’t the word I would instantly throw at it. Minimal material providing a maximum impact, is the name of the game with Fatima’s collection, and I would prefer the climate of Portugal in the spring and summer to wear her outfits. The swimwear though is not for me, I’m going with the more “Lady Like” trend for next spring, less skin showing will be  more!   

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Rabih Kayrous

If you wish to get a full spectrum of primary colours than Rabih Kayrous, a Lebanese designer, will gain your following. Tutored at the knee of  Dior and Chanel his work gives a flowing element to the body form. Going bare footed in the grass would also add another sensual dimension for the girl experiencing Rabih’s talents, and as a new convert to knitted wear my eye was drawn to architectural structure of the blue top…isn’t that gorgeous!

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Anthony Vaccarello

Anthony Vaccarello, is for those girls who can accept ingenuity in her fashion statement. These creations are more than just clothing to look good, they are a symbiotic relationship with the mind. A two-way relationship which is shared with your audience just like an  artistic exhibition… yes, and I do not mean a Damien Hurst, more like the illustrator Jirayu Koo with her strong geometric lines. 

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Nana Aganovich

She has been called “quirky” again this int the adjective I would give, mine would be “intelligent design.”  Aganovich is London (Whitechapel) who gains inspiration from her colleague Brooke Taylor, a writer who  provides conceptual narrative in which she can acquire her images of inspiration.

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Incredible interpretations of words,which give you such a strength of presence and being.

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I hope you have enjoyed this little look, and you can now leave comments on this site, I didn’t realise it was “locked”…bye for now.


Fatima Lopes photo credit unkown. Rabih Keyrouz photos by Balkis Press/ABACAPRESS.COM Photo via Newscom Anthony Vaccarello photos REUTERS/Benoit Tessier Nana Aganovich, unknown Karim Bonnet for Impasse de la Defense REUTERS/Benoit Tessier

Paris Fashion Week…Cathy Pill, Devastee, Alexis Mabille, Bouchra Jarrar and Lefranc.Ferrant.

Posted in French Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 29, 2010

As Paris rehearses its performance for the world stage of fashion, I thought I would remind you of a few of this seasons exhibitors’ winter collections, and  just to refresh the names and their fashion signatures. Often the UK maintains its borders only allowing the established names of European fashion into the country. Perhaps Al Murray is being too influential….but  to France we must look, as the, like the UK, have a wealth of new talent, designers with impeccable curriculum vitae, as well as seasoned practitioners such as Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin. Today I want to tempt your taste buds with these five designers:

Cathy Pill

A world-class designer, is already a success in the USA, Far East and Europe. Only occasionally  heard of here in the UK, which is just a shame, she is a great designer. With her Art Nouveau inspired elements she creates a wonderful. Nationally heritage for Cathy though belongs to Belgium, and she shows regularly in Paris…time for us to adopt her work.

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Creators of Devastee are Ophelie Klepe and Francoise Alspy, … they will be showing their spring /summer collection today, and I will contact their press officer to see if we can get any more information about the collection. If so, I will devote a little more time to this genre of fashion later in the week. Black and white if done well just looks spectacular, and this sample of their strong graphical design does them justice,

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Alexis Mabille

Impeccable qualifications from the Chambre Syndicale de la   Haute Couture in Paris, nine years designing for Christian Dior, Alexis invites you to ” delve into his highly personal, frivolous, dynamic, imaginative and racy universe in order to take a fresh look on his unisex fashion”. It has been a long time since I heard the term unisex, and I don’t mean wearing our mans’ rugby shirt around the house, though it is applicable. I can see the hair styles applying, but perhaps it’s just me but I can’t see many men wearing these outfits…not being too narrow-minded or bigoted,… if it makes you feel good guys to wear Alexis Mobille’s clothes…go for it.

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Bouchra Jarrar

Studio director at  both Balenciaga and Christian Lacroix, Jarrar brings class with delicacy of the feminine form added to astute understanding of the tone his style creates. This is the ultimate in classy femininity. I would beg, borrow or steal   (I wouldn’t really steal,.. its just a saying) to wear one of BJ’s dresses. I could string together a line or two of complimentary adjectives, but that would waste time, time better spent looking at his work, don’t you agree?

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Mario Lefranc’s pedigree is extensive; Chloe, Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin. Mario has  teamed up with Beatrice Ferrant,  a fashion designer with experience from Frederi Castet, Jean  Patou, Catherine Malandrino, and for Balanciaga licences. With such strength in this working collaboration, then you are going to expect a show… structured and luxurious. If it is boldness of colour which is required in the wardrobe department, these guys are for you.

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I hope you have enjoyed this taster of A/W 2010 from across the Channel, …mouth-watering wants, Paris fashion Week is going to rock the fashion world…see you soon!

Aminaka Wilmont “Psyche” collection 2011

Posted in British Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 28, 2010

“Fantasy” covers a very wide range of topics,  but for  Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont, the two designers behind Aminika Wilmont label it’s about an individual journey.  “PSYCHE”  takes you on a journey into the world of dreams and fantasy.  Aminaka Wilmot,psyche collection,2011 dresses,silk printed dresses,voulue.com

According to  their statement the label  AMINAKA WILMONT is about    ” Escaping reality and the notion of the present, the sixth on schedule collection by opens the doors of interpretation and playfulness. Cascading crepe de chine delicately wraps and twists unpredictably, falling and  turning to reveal the soft pastel colour palette. Bold textures and structures punctuate the ethereal silhouette with unexpected bursts of monochrome embracing the dream thematic….”
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I  particularly find the butterfly wing shoes very interesting, I would love a pair of these for that very special occassion…hoping for good, if not excellent weather to display them. I think they wouldn’t have the same impact if things got a little “soggy” !

  Aminika Wilmot,london fashion week 2010,lfs,london fashion,british fashion,english fashion,voulue,com

Marcus Wilmont, Creative Director at Aminaka Wilmont says, “It is by far our boldest and most diverse collection and we are really excited to see everyone’s reaction. Our aim is to surprise and delight by embracing fantasy but at the same time staying true to the Aminaka Wilmont aesthetic”. Inspired by the works of the  illustrator Dave McKean and creative writer Neil Gaiman, it is about  surrealism and strong silhouettes (www.aminakawilmont.com). I do like the curiosity factor which MMcKean brings to his illustrations from his small book of black and white lies the birdwatcher is an image which attracts my curiosity, what is going on! Let alone the Photoshop skills which he has mastered to bring us a modern Salvador Dali image, he certainly sees life differently.David McKean,birdwatcher,aminaki wilmott,fantasy,psyche,voulue.comGieman’s genre of writing  on the other hand, hasn’t ever been on the radar, let alone my reading list; it just doesn’t appeal to me, not even as an academic exercise. Initially when I saw the title of the collection I was hoping that the “Psyche” was from the more classical fantasy stories from the ancient world rather than the contemporary one! 
I  initially believed  this was the “Psyche” of ancient  tales, the  mortal  beauty scorned by the immortal goddess Venus, who sends her son Cupid to shoot his arrows…etc etc, a great story…but, it’s the outstanding beauty of the collection which is important, and convincingly Aminaka Wilmott has achieved this goal.I hope this collection  and the designers are able to succeed against any tasks the goddess Venus throws at them..do read the story its quiet an exciting love story!!       

Earlier I mentioned about the shoes, and I have just noticed this in their press release “An explosion of Butterflies that  fill the room”  is it coincidental that the “Psyche” is also a small white  butterfly from India, with a black spot on its wing, rather like the small white butterfly we see here in the UK.  There is quiet a story unravelling here with this collection, but  I will let you try to  escape reality and enter the realm of fantasy…happy shopping.

Holly Fulton inspired by Memphis,Krushenick & Joan Collins

Posted in British Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 27, 2010

When Holly Fulton was asked the question of who  has provided her  are inspiration for her spring/summer 2011 she said “Memphis design, Nicholas Krushenick, and Joan Collins on a cruise circa 1967.”

Memphis design, which started some thirty years ago, was a design theory or approach aimed to remove the conventional rules which “guided” good design in the 1980’s. Originating from Italy… Milan to be exact, quickly spread into furniture and architectural design…so here is a sample of the style, which you will see quiet clearly in Holly’s collection.

Memphis design,Holly Fulton,Karl Lagerfeld,design,graphic design,fashion design,The underlying ethos of the Memphis movement was to break away from the convention of the time, was not too surprising, when you consider it was the era of Punk and their anti-establishment attitude…nice to kick out occasionally, it generates  the creative process.Nicholas Krushenic,pop art, artist,lichenstein,pop artists,commercial art,voulue.com

New York artist Nicholas Krushenick is another inspirational key which Holy as used, a Pop Art exponent of the 80’s. Clear elements of the genre involved the use of thick border lines and colour blocks. Personally, my preference would have been Roy Lichtenstein…his work has a terrific impact and a strong storyline. I would love to see Holly capture his magic in a future collection!

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These designs are very eye-catching and as a bonus, you could, on an intellectual level, tell  everyone about the influential factors which have created your masterpiece.

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Holly has included a few long dresses to the collection, wether or not the Maxi trend continues into spring will be irrelevant, these  elements  will comfortably fit into any social occasion.

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Fluffy clouds with graduating grey to white is very effective, and I feel the quickness in the design, added to the simplicity of the overall image works exceedingly well. As for the  elements from the “Joan Collins cruise circa 1967”  I haven’t been able to  identify them…but that doesn’t matter, the combination of the elements has unlocked a great collection for Holly, don’t you agree?

Todd Lynn a Strong Signature Collection

Posted in Uncategorized by Gregory on September 24, 2010

Are you looking to be different, and perhaps the  “lady like” trend for 2011 may not be your cup of tea,then how about an immaculate tailored look from Todd Lynn. It does remind me a little of the tunics worn by Commander Stryker from the 70’s  tv series UFO. Perhaps this futuristic interpretation of the 1970’s cult show is an underlying factor in this work…maybe Todd is a Sci-Fi geek in his private life…who knows? Nonetheless, my tangential thoughts may be wide of the mark, but its fun trying to get to the “spark” which has inspired his collection.

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Todd does give you a product that will fulfil your needs for a “smart and  impressionable” style,  I feel these looks would be great in any work place. Especially in an environment where you do not have to have the conventional suited and booted look that perpetuates year after year, decade after decade. I came across one of my grandfathers suits, the style is still on the street today, and he hasn’t worn the suit for 30 years!!

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As for  consistency and reliability Todd Lynn signature is delivered in his collections year after year, there is no guess-work involved when you are wearing one of his outfits.As for my favourite, it has to be the last model on the right  in the picture below. Light blue grey dress with contrasting elements and trim, it looks so trim and clean and professional.

Todd Lynn,fashion designer,clothes designer,english fashion,designer clothing,

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Christopher Kane…Candy Coloured Collection Spring 2011

Posted in British Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 23, 2010

London Fashion Week may be over for another six months, but the momentum will definitely carry us forwards  until they show the  autumn winter 2011 collections after Christmas. I haven’t shown you  more than one days showing yet, so there will be more to come over the next week or two for you to enjoy. Neon coloured candy, was my first  thought for the day, and yet my eye was drawn to the centre model with the diamond patterned orange tank top below, it seems out-of-place, or is it an indication of the scene in which your outfit can be used on the golf course…you may loose a few balls, but you will always be in view…a safety factor…not if I was playing, I slice golf balls everywhere!Christopher Kane,spring 2011 womens dresses,voulue.comMy second thought was…Bassets liqourice Allsorts…what a strange thought to have whilst looking at Christopher’s new collection.But hey, who’s listening to my thoughts…I didn’t think that through very well did I, as you are now reading my thoughts, now that’s scary.

Christopher Kane spring 2011,London Fashion Show,Somerset house.designer dresses,voulue.com

My first impressions were, that I  loved the underlying design theme which is running through his work. Almost “Royal”, in as much as the Queen wears a different colour for each of her occasions, this would be for a modern trendy Queen. Personally, I wouldn’t feel brave enough to wear the neon , though the printed fabrics with the tribal finger pattern designs would hit my spot, in particular the first on the left, and the second, third…yes you are getting my drift, I love all of these. My wardrobe will bulge, my bank balance will recede, but I will feel great.

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Inside Outside dichotomy for Mary Katrantzou

Posted in Uncategorized by Gregory on September 22, 2010

Now here you can reflect on your ability to  show the world how you live by wearing your home decor on your exterior. Perhaps you are accustomed to life in  an oppulant habitat, or maybe they are aspirational dreams…Grande dreams, of what reality could be, rather than wearing a dress showing an image similar to… the Trotters with a Reliant van on a housing estate in Peckham! 

 (For my international readers try googling: Only Fools and Horses, and you will see what I mean!)

Mary Katrantzou,london fashion week,spring dresses2011,voulue.com

For the  young fashionistas amongst you who like to assimilate work into your own looks, please don,t pop along to your local DIY store and then add door knockers to your outfit, it will look quiet silly!These accessories would have to go , for me they just over power the look. Having said that, I do like the mix of chintz, with colour blocks and architectural designs, they produce a very pleasing image on the eye. One which, with the right piece, could be worn even in the executive office…a power statement definitely.

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The added pastel shades at another pleasing dimension to the outfits, this is where to pick up guidance for your accessories. For handbags, I would go with a complimentary pastel colour, overall a plain design as there is enough action happening in the dress; and if you choose one of the “lampshade” skirts below, definitely, only a small handbag or clutch is required for practical reasons.

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No one could ever say you image and style is commonplace when you wear an outfit from Mary Katrantzou. My favorite outfit is in the picture above, centre model…I would love that jacket and skirt ensemble…do you have a favourite? Share your thoughts with us on Facebook.

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On|Off fashion showcase…Angela Cassidy

Posted in British Fashion Designers, Knitwear Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 21, 2010

On|Off is the UK’s original, independent fashion showcase held in association with London Fashion Week, and this year it is being held at Victoria House on Bloomsbury Square. The square was full of school children playing the usual catch me games, as we had lunch on the park bench before the show. Only ten minutes from Somerset House, and on such a pleasant September morning we made the best of outdoor eating.

We had booked a meeting here with designer Andrew Majtenyi, though I will talk about Andrew on another day. The shows were held  in the basement area of the building, offering a background of white washed brick walls and overhead wires and heating ducts. In the main entrance area stood what I can only describe as a fossilized tree structure, I’ve taken out the background of people and added a few artistic touches of my own…in reality they are stark white!

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With so many successful young designers here I was really not prepared for the work of Angela Cassidy.For knitwear, as I have said previously, tends to leave me cold, quite literally, and usually I will overlook this part of the fashion wardrobe because it just doesn,t appeal to me. Well, I have changed my mind , after a close encounter with Angela Cassidy’s collection. A catwalk show had just ended and there was pack of journalists,blog writers of renown trying to escape and I was pushed back into the clothes rail. Wow these knits (not the press, this time) are great!

I have been educated… “I love this work”, the attention to detail and the finish quality is excellent. These light in weight “pullies” would go with so much of my personal wardrobe it was unbelievable ,I would have chosen at least half a dozen pieces from her spring collection straight away. Quality, quality,quality.It goes without saying this collection will be sort after on the world stage, let alone here in the UK, it has such universal appeal, and would easily span the twenty’s,thirty’s, and even forty’s something age group and beyond.

Contemporary and extremely flexible in their use, makes this a winner for me . And as an  added bonus, Angela has been thoughtful to add a few tailored shorts or slacks to her collection. Angela Cassidy,knitwear,designer knitwear,womens jersey,sweater,cropped t-sweater,voulue.com

This is just a taster of the designs Angela has and when I get hold of some more images I will share them with you.

Bye for now.

Bora Aksu…demicouture

Posted in British Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 20, 2010

London-based Bora Aksu will bring  a theatrical quality to your fashion look, as he is a connoisseur of material manipulation and form, which will attract an appreciative audience. This is the half way stop between ready to wear and couture. This isn’t just fashion, it’s a lifestyle, an image of “bold statements” which you will be buying into, and if you start on this path you may just never stop. You will become addicted to the rush of wearing image altering substances, “more…more…more..” its better than chocolate!  I hear them cry,well perhaps not… mmm chocolate.Bora Aksu,london fashion week 2010,spring collection,womens designer couture,clothes,shoes

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Back to the fashion, Bora was trained at the production factory of dreams in the UK (St Martins), their lecturers must be proud of the quantity and quality of the fashion students they bring online year after year…well done. And of course ,we all benefit with a torrent of great fashion to swim in. Bora, well I would place in the fast flowing part of the river, and you will need to be a good swimmer, full of energy and stamina to carry off his look.

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This is only part of Bora’s collection but it allows your to see his signature, which is not only distinguishable, but one I’m sure will be sought by the autograph collectors, and naturally Lady Gaga when she wishes to  dress down a little.

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Those stockings look wonderful, I think I will try and get a pair for my wardrobe…just in case I decide to go for the demicouture look.

Images from the catwalk…Maria Grachvogel

Posted in British Fashion Designers by Gregory on September 18, 2010

london fashion week,somerset house,london,american diner,cafe,coffee,fashionWhat a glorious start to London Fashion week, the sun is out on this pleasant autumn morning,London fashion week,strand,american diner,london pigeons,fashion,voulue.com before the runway started we grabbed a coffee from this American diner, the reflections of Somerset house are particularly noticeable, though it’s the pigeons on the wall opposite which  attracted my attention…beguiled by all the activity of  humans preening themselves!

The show started a little later than advertised due to some technical error, which only added to the nervous tension of the event. Within the dark and somewhat close environment of the show tent, the sound of summer crickets chirping set the scene for Maria Grachvogels spring collection.

 The array of outfits could be placed into a clear dichotomy of choice, the plain mono colour and the multi.Maria Grachvogel,spring2011,london fashion week,september fashion,womens fashion,designer fashion,

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The garments moved with a life of their own. A symbiotic relationship which exists between you and the  as the air silver chiffon  reacting to your movements.The simplistic styling of the hair added a complimentary dimension to the collection, created by the L’Oreal team and the make up was by Mel Arter of the M.A.C. Pro team.